If you want rats from me, send me a message or go on Facebook and find Blue Apple Rats and message me there. You’ll be given an auto message with an email address. But before you do that, please read this!
Like any good breeder, I want to make sure my rats go to people who love rats, are willing to learn everything they can to keep them healthy and happy, and can provide their housing, food, and veterinary needs for the whole of their relatively short lives.
There are so many rats that end up purchased by well-meaning people only to be passed on when the landlord discovers with horror that there are pet rats in the place (heaven forfend!) or a child loses interest, or the owner gets bored. I’ve had many “rescue rats” due to such circumstances and I am determined that the rats I breed do not end up being rehomed.
If you adopt rats from me and, should you be unable to look after them in the future, you must return them to me.
I’ll always have them back but please don’t get rats from me unless you are 100% sure you can keep them! This means your landlord or housemates aren’t against the idea or allergic, that you can afford them, that you agree to look after them for their entire lives. If for some reason you cannot, ring and we’ll see what can be arranged, however. I usually have a lot of people who want rats and might be able to find a suitable home if I can’t keep it myself.
Rats are quite expensive — not to purchase but to keep! I suggest you put £100-150 pounds away for every rat you plan to keep. My experience with rats is that they will get at least one upper respiratory infection, costing close to 50 pounds for the vet visit and medication, and one “put to sleep” visit, costing about the same later in their lives. Additionally, you may find you need to spay or have a tumour removed from your rat. Costs vary but my vet will charge about £85-£120 for a spay. I recently spent £168.00 on a rat that was born a cryptorchid and required surgery. Not every rat will need tumour removal or spaying, but it’s good to know you have the funds available if this should turn out to be the case.
Your rats’ quality of life is very important. They are such smart, active, curious creatures that they really need to come out daily for about an hour to “free-range” either in a secure room or a large enclosure (I can help you with ideas on this). I do this myself with all my rats, so I know it takes a lot of time. I can only say it makes a HUGE difference to these animals’ lives. While I watch tv or chat with friends, they climb on me, go through tunnels, investigate the book shelf, and generally have a nice time. Because I have both males and females, I have to make sure that each group comes out separately. It’s a commitment!
And what happens when you go away for holiday? You can’t just leave them with nobody to attend to them. You’ll need to find a family member or pet service that will check on them daily. Of course, if it is only overnight, you can add an extra water bottle and a big bowl of food and you’ll probably be fine, but don’t turn off the heat! Rats can adjust to colder temperatures, but not all at once. I like to keep mine between 17 degrees celsius and 21 degrees celsius. It’s difficult to keep these temperatures during a very hot summer or cold winter and this is why I insist that any rats of mine be kept in your house and not in a shed or garage. I can help you with ideas for keeping your rats warm enough, for cooling them down, for making sure they thrive, but only if they are in a house or flat, not outdoors.
Rats need company. I’ve found very few exceptions to the rule that all rats must be kept in a minimum of pairs. This is why I prefer to home rats in trios, not in pairs. It is so easy to lose a rat at, say, 20 months old and have their sister or brother go on to live six additional months or more. If you have a very elderly rat that really is on its last legs you may choose to keep him or her alone for a couple of weeks prior to saying goodbye to that rat. In fact, that may be the kindest thing if the rat is very infirm. However, for the most part, you really need to keep rats with other rats. If you end up with a singleton, let me or another member of the National Fancy Rat Society know that you are in this position. In fact, join the NFRS so that you don’t have to ask a million different breeders through separate emails. If you are a member of the NFRS you can post in the WANTED section of the forum. Plus the forum is a goldmine of information. People will be more than willing to help you either by supplying you with a couple of baby rats or even finding a rat of approximately the same age with which you can pair your singleton rat. That is, if they have them available.
Do you have the room for a rat cage? It seems a silly question but these cages are BIG. In fact, if you want to make your life a lot easier, get a couple of cages. One would be smallish, the sort of thing you can keep three baby rats in for a week or so and then use as a “hospital” or travel cage in the future. I have a Savic Ruffy 2 cage that I’d never keep rats in permanently because it is way too small even for 2 rats. However, I find it fits nicely into my car when I take my rats away with me overnight (which, yes, I do!) or when I take a few to shows. It has been an old rats’ cage for my extremely elderly rats who can no longer climb and a honeymoon suite for a pair of rats I hope to mate. I love the cage, though it is not perfect (the door is on the top so you have to swoop in eagle-style to pick up a rat!). At home, my rats are in a Savic Suite Royale, a giant cage with two levels. However, a trio of rats all be quite happy in something like a Furplast Freddy 2 or a Freddy 2 Max. You can use a Mamble 100 if you can find it, half the price and much bigger than it looks in the photos. Also, good is the Coco Large found at Little Pet Warehouse. Both these last two have stands that fit them and I LOVE the stands. Try LittlePetWarehouse for purchase.
If you’re hooked on rats, you’ll soon get hooked on the cages. You can put tubes and hammocks and cosy bed houses and every imaginable toy. Don’t skimp. I use at least 2 hammocks, 1 sputnik, digging boxes, ropes, cargo nets, lots of perches, perch hammocks, tunnels, and tons of chewing toys and climbing toys in every one of my cages. I know owners who are better than I am at kitting out cages and I try to do better all the time instead of looking for the minimum. I do NOT require a bioactive cage (not even sure I like them, but it’s okay if you do) but the cage itself has to be suitable for rats – large, airy, with cars not glass/plastic walls. I do not require you take out the middle section of your SRS (I leave mine in). If you do remove the middle section of your SRS, you’ll need a lot of large flat fall-breaker hammocks.
I need to see the cage all set up and ready for rats before I will home them to you. No exceptions. You may have a chance to add stuff in or switch cages but I won’t go back and forth with you about it if you don’t ant to do it. I’ll just keep the rats until a different home is found. My homing requirements are tough and there are other breeders, breeders with perfectly nice rats, are probably easier to satisfy on this score. I am very fussy and hold myself to very high standards, too, so I know how expensive it is, how much time it takes, and what a commitment it is to look after these animals well. Believe me, I am very, very grateful to all my homes who do such a stellar job. You are amazing!
Now, for the health-related stuff. First, are you allergic to rats? If you think you might be, please go along to a rat show run by the NFRS or another organisation (I will supply you with a list), walk around and play with the rats (people will be happy to share their rats with you if you explain why you want to hold them) BEFORE collecting a pair of babies and then breaking out in a skin rash! You may be allergic to their bedding, not the rat, which is easily managed by switching bedding.
Next, are you pregnant or are you immunocompromised? Why do I ask? Because many pet rats (or at least some pet rats) may carry hantavirus, which is a virus that is normally not serious but CAN be serious for some people, including those who are immunocompromised. Now, if you have pet rats and later become pregnant, you can ask your doctor about the situation. Your doctor may know little about it, however. Hopefully, it won’t matter too much as you have already been exposed to your rats and so if they carry the virus you already have antibodies. But I wouldn’t go around playing with tons of additional other rats during this time. Also, keep your rats indoors so they don’t come into contact with wild rats that may carry leptospirosis.
If you have children, are they able to cope with a rat bite, should one occur? My rats don’t bite me but if I were try to break up a fight (don’t do that!) I’d have a chance of being bitten and these bites can be serious. This is why I don’t break up rat fights with my hands — ever! Anyway, most rat fights result in no injury to either rat despite the squeaking! If you must break it up, get something to protect your hands!
All rat bites carry a chance of rat bite fever. And anyway, they hurt. For a small child a rat bite to the finger could be very deep and do lots of damage. The same is true for hamster bites, of course, but I’m just making the point. I like small does for small children for this reason. Smaller jaws, less testosterone. Having said that, I’m always amazed at how cuddly and gentle male rats are. It’s just that if they do bite, they will make a bigger impression.
Have I scared you off? I hope not! Like many breeders, I am doing everything I can to breed really sweet, easy rats. But they aren’t the cheapest pet (apparently the hamster is our cheapest pet!) and they do need daily attention, a big cage, funds for veterinary care, and a little respect by children and adults alike.
You can find loads of information through the National Fancy Rat Society. I suggest you join it and read their forum. A great source of the latest knowledge.